Mark Kenley Domino Tan Copenhagen Fall/Winter 2024 Collection

After diving deep into the ocean to reveal pearls for spring 2024, the team of Caroline Engelger and Mark Kenley Domino Tan has taken to the skies this season. Oh, to fly away! It's the ultimate escapist fantasy. The designer said backstage, “Even if the world is in a difficult situation right now, we are allowed to dream during the eight-minute show.'' “Some days I think, 'What are we doing with fashion?' But for me, it's really about courage.”

It makes sense then that Amelia Earhart was one of her references. This daring aviator, whose plane may have been spotted at 16,000 feet deep in the Pacific Ocean, ties in with the light theme of this women's collection and the menswear aspect of his jackets, particularly the aviator . Elsewhere, the Byronesque ribbons on his shirt and the way he tucks his pants into his boots recall Tolstoy's characters. His 1775 Hotel d'Angleterre, the setting for the show, also influenced the design direction. Smoking seemed particularly appropriate in this space.

It was a short jump from sartorialism to thinking about classics like trench coats and LBDs. The brand's going-out dresses came in a variety of colors with angular origami-like tops (in keeping with the protruding angles seen in Dior couture). In contrast to the clear folds of frocks, many of the ensembles had a soft impression, as if wrapped in a blanket.

The color-block knit dress, ivory in the front and blue in the back, somehow reminded me of a Doric column. Columns, sculptures, classics. As the world continues to fragment, designers are grasping for the constant. As Engelger grows in her confidence, so too does her clothing, and her clothes this season have a subtle sense of swagger that should enhance the brand's reputation.

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